Match the symptom, then work through the safe checks.
1. What best matches what you observe?
2. Complete only the checks that are safe for you.
Show stop conditions
- The screw is near a battery, fuel, wiring, glass, or a pressurized component
- The workpiece cannot be secured
- Drilling could damage a critical part
Likely causes
- Wrong bit size or type was used
- Driver speed or pressure caused cam-out
- The screw is corroded or thread-locked
- The head is too damaged for normal engagement
Quick checks, in order
Use the exact bit
Clean the head and test the correct Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx, hex, or other profile.
Increase downward pressure
Turn slowly by hand where possible to avoid further damage.
Add grip
A wide rubber band or abrasive material between bit and head may help on lightly damaged screws.
Use an extractor only with control
Protect eyes, secure the workpiece, and avoid drilling near wiring, batteries, or pressurized parts.
How exposed is the screw?
Locking pliers may turn the outer edge if the surrounding surface can be protected.
Try a fresh correct bit, manual impact driver where appropriate, or a screw extractor.
Avoid drilling and metal debris. Professional disassembly is safer.
Stop and get qualified help when
- The screw is near a battery, fuel, wiring, glass, or a pressurized component
- The workpiece cannot be secured
- Drilling could damage a critical part
Frequently asked questions
Does a rubber band always remove a stripped screw?
No. It can add grip only when the head is mildly damaged and the bit still has some engagement.
Why should driver speed be low?
High speed increases slipping, heat, and further wear. Slow controlled torque gives the bit a better chance to hold.