Match the symptom, then work through the safe checks.
1. What best matches what you observe?
2. Complete only the checks that are safe for you.
Show stop conditions
- The inlet hose or valve leaks
- Water continues entering when power is off
- Internal valve or electrical testing is required
Likely causes
- The water supply valve is closed
- The inlet hose is kinked or restricted
- The door latch is not confirming closure
- The overfill float is stuck in the raised position
- The inlet valve, wiring, or control has failed
Quick checks, in order
Open the supply valve fully
Verify water is available at the sink.
Inspect the inlet hose
Check for kinks, crushing, freezing, or a leak-stop device that has activated.
Check the door and float area
Remove obstructions and confirm the user-accessible float moves as described in the manual.
Listen during the fill stage
A hum with no water suggests a supply or inlet restriction; silence may indicate a control or valve issue.
What happens after the drain stage?
Check the supply valve, hose, pressure, screen, and inlet path.
The latch, float switch, inlet valve, wiring, or control may need diagnosis.
Low pressure, a restricted inlet, or an early level-sensing signal is possible.
Stop and get qualified help when
- The inlet hose or valve leaks
- Water continues entering when power is off
- Internal valve or electrical testing is required
Frequently asked questions
Does a dishwasher fill all the way to the door?
No. Modern machines use a relatively shallow amount of water below the door opening.
Can a stuck float stop filling?
Yes. If the overfill system indicates a high water level, the control may keep the inlet valve closed.