Match the symptom, then work through the safe checks.
1. What best matches what you observe?
2. Complete only the checks that are safe for you.
Show stop conditions
- A hose is swollen, cracked, or leaking
- Water continues entering when the washer is off
- Internal valve or live electrical testing is needed
Likely causes
- One or both water valves are closed
- An inlet hose is kinked, frozen, or blocked
- The inlet screens are restricted
- The door or lid is not locking
- The inlet valve, pressure sensor, or control has failed
Quick checks, in order
Open the supply valves fully
Verify normal flow at a nearby tap.
Inspect both inlet hoses
Straighten kinks and confirm hot and cold connections match the installation guide.
Check accessible inlet screens
Turn off water and follow the exact model manual. Do not damage or remove screens permanently.
Confirm the door locks
Remove trapped fabric and listen for the lock response.
What happens after Start is pressed?
Door-lock feedback, the inlet valve, wiring, or control may be involved.
A closed valve, blocked hose, frozen line, or restricted screen is likely.
Focus on that supply valve, hose, screen, and inlet-valve channel.
Stop and get qualified help when
- A hose is swollen, cracked, or leaking
- Water continues entering when the washer is off
- Internal valve or live electrical testing is needed
Frequently asked questions
Can low water pressure stop a washer?
Yes. Many washers time the fill and report a fault if the expected level is not reached.
Why does the washer add only a little water?
High-efficiency machines may use less visible water, but clothes should still wet and the cycle should continue without a fill error.